Alone Together

The number of guidebooks available for the GR5 and the descriptions we had read had us anticipating many hikers on the trail. We did see quite a few people in certain parts of the Alps, day hikers in and around sites like water falls, mountain bikers and the occasional long distance hikers, but for the most part it was a solitary walk. We were alone along on the trail most days except for brief encounters, all the way through Europe.

We were alone on wind swept passes, in corn fields, in crowds in city squares, among herds of cattle and sheep, surrounded by forests, in silent churches, along canals, on beaches, in gorges, on quiet village streets, and in flower bestrewn meadows. 

We were lost, drenched, cold, hot, hungry, and attacked by insects together. We had foot problems, injuries, skin rashes, undie chafing, and sicknesses together. We learned pidgin Dutch, Flemish, and French together. We learned how to locate hotels, cafes, restaurants, Laundromats, newsstands, and toilets together. We watched movies in languages we didn’t understand, weather reports, ditto, and the world cup matches together. We shared birdsong, and lovely vistas, and beautiful sunny days, and breaks in bad weather, wonderful meals, and sunsets together. Outside of an occasional disastrous meeting, we had delightful interactions with people all along the way, together.

photo by Melanie

We were pals, helpmates, lovers, and the only support either of us had for the entire trip. We thought we should have done this when we met. And we were jealous of our friends Heather and Justin, who took the time to travel together at the beginning of their marriage. Growing as a couple was the most important part of the trip for us. When we related this to other hikers they looked puzzled. The expectation for a journey is that the countryside and people you meet will have the most impact, not that things that change inside your own head will be so important. What we learned is that every journey is a pilgrimage and that what you carry with you after returning home includes much more than memories of the things encountered. For us it was how important and special we are to each other.