Today we are laying over an extra day in Brecht, Be. Rhonda has a cold and it is raining, so we decided to give her a day to rest with a Sudoku book.
We have been struggling with the blog, trying to get to look right and copy edited. We should have worked with it more before we left. And then there are the differences in keyboards. Today on our hotel propietors computer I am struggling with a zerty keyboard, where the period even requires a shift.
We will be arriving at the Leers in Hulshot in two days, so should have some time to get the bugs out of the blog. Sitting at borrrowed computers for hours makes us nervious.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Friday, May 28, 2010
Photo update
We are in Wuustweezel, Belgum, at a gastkamer (Bed and breakfast) after beautiful hiking through fields, forests, farmlands, and heath. We are fumbling with the blog at a computer in the house we are staying, befor moving on to Brecht.Here are some photos from the last week:
Along a canal.
Entering Zierikzee
.Rhonda resting after hiking in the rain.
Through a window in our room in Klamthout.
Our room in gastkamer in Klamthout.
Franky the propiertor of the gastkamer in Klamthout recuing Rhonda with pads for her shoulders.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Lay over daze
When we planned this trip we realized that not being 30 anymore we would have to take our time. So we planned a layover day after every four days of walking. Today we laid over in Bergen op Zoom.
After attending to the washing of clothes and eating breakfast (the Dutch breakfast, which comes with the room is typically eggs, boiled or scrambled, rolls, cheese, meat, yogurt, fruit) we left our room festooned with drying clothes and walked toward the city center, which is about 10 minutes away.
We immediately noticed bright yellow flags criss crossing the streets and yellow signs announcing an event. And then we saw a group of boisterous people listening to accordian music with yellow neckerchiefs and tee shirts. They were a group of volunteers for the Roparun which had just passed through town. They explained that it was a team relay race between Paris and Rotterdam (500km) that is a fund raiser for cancer research. We had missed the runners on the last 99 km leg of the race, but the volunteers were a jolly bunch full of suggestions for what to do in the City.
We stopped in the main square, which was very quiet except for volunteers taking down flags, and had a coffee at an outdoor cafe. Then we walked the center of the city stopping at St. Gertrudiskerk, built originally in 1477. The churches here really tell the history of the country. This church began as a Catholic church but with the revolt against Spain followed closely by the reformation it was taken over by protestants, who removed the stained glass, art and statues and created an austere setting more suitable to their religious practise. Napolean overran Netherlands and destroyed the church. Finally the Catholic church took it over again, but a fire in the sixties destroyed the church. The City now owns the church and has turned it into a religieous museum of sorts, where ecumenical services take place several times a year. The next one to take place will be next weekend during the City Jazz Festival.
We learned all of this from the lady who was at the admissions desk. She gave us a tour as we were the only visitors, all the time apologizing for her poor English which was really quite good. She and Rhonda had an understanding when she pointed out a confessional and said, "I remember when I was a girl making up things to tell the priest, like I had stolen candy."
Back in the town square we sat in the sun and had a beer then went to see the palace a large brick building with corner towers, many windows, statues and embelished cornices and a large courtyard, where the annual antiquarian book sale was taking place. Across the street from the palace we lunched in a small square on beer, sandwiches and salad.
On the way back to our room we passed a waterfront park and heard a PA system, so we detoured and found that there was a kids horse race of sorts in progress. The contestants rode head to head over jumps and through a 180 degree turn, then dismounted and road bicycles, going through the course again using the spaces between the jumps as slalom gates. A big crowd was watching and eating and drinking in the beer garden that had been set up in the park.
Next to the horse/bicycling race was a dog racing track. It was a U shaped 100 meter track made up of termporary platic fencing like we use for protecting trees in construction projects. The "rabbit" was a ball of ribbon tied to a string that revolved around the track on pulleys. The dogs in the races were terriers. It was reminescent of U 6 soccer, with some dogs fast and sure, others chasing their brethern, some going the wrong way and some who needed their mistresses to run with them. The Dutch took the racing as a matter of coarse, reserving emotion, while the Americans cheered on the competitors.
Back at the hotel, which is very quiet this weekend, probably because most people went to the shore for their holiday, we sat in the dining room looking out at the wet lands, forest and sea through large windows flanking a 10' X 15' portrait of clint Eastwood in a duster, cheroot hanging rom the corner of his mouth, hand moving toward his six gun.
We had a great dinner, but for one mistake. We thought 13 euros for lobster dinner was such a good deal we could not pass it up. Unfortunately we had not noticed that the cost was 13 per 100grams and the lobsters weighed in at 500 grams. A costly mistake at the end of a great day.
After attending to the washing of clothes and eating breakfast (the Dutch breakfast, which comes with the room is typically eggs, boiled or scrambled, rolls, cheese, meat, yogurt, fruit) we left our room festooned with drying clothes and walked toward the city center, which is about 10 minutes away.
We immediately noticed bright yellow flags criss crossing the streets and yellow signs announcing an event. And then we saw a group of boisterous people listening to accordian music with yellow neckerchiefs and tee shirts. They were a group of volunteers for the Roparun which had just passed through town. They explained that it was a team relay race between Paris and Rotterdam (500km) that is a fund raiser for cancer research. We had missed the runners on the last 99 km leg of the race, but the volunteers were a jolly bunch full of suggestions for what to do in the City.
We stopped in the main square, which was very quiet except for volunteers taking down flags, and had a coffee at an outdoor cafe. Then we walked the center of the city stopping at St. Gertrudiskerk, built originally in 1477. The churches here really tell the history of the country. This church began as a Catholic church but with the revolt against Spain followed closely by the reformation it was taken over by protestants, who removed the stained glass, art and statues and created an austere setting more suitable to their religious practise. Napolean overran Netherlands and destroyed the church. Finally the Catholic church took it over again, but a fire in the sixties destroyed the church. The City now owns the church and has turned it into a religieous museum of sorts, where ecumenical services take place several times a year. The next one to take place will be next weekend during the City Jazz Festival.
We learned all of this from the lady who was at the admissions desk. She gave us a tour as we were the only visitors, all the time apologizing for her poor English which was really quite good. She and Rhonda had an understanding when she pointed out a confessional and said, "I remember when I was a girl making up things to tell the priest, like I had stolen candy."
Back in the town square we sat in the sun and had a beer then went to see the palace a large brick building with corner towers, many windows, statues and embelished cornices and a large courtyard, where the annual antiquarian book sale was taking place. Across the street from the palace we lunched in a small square on beer, sandwiches and salad.
On the way back to our room we passed a waterfront park and heard a PA system, so we detoured and found that there was a kids horse race of sorts in progress. The contestants rode head to head over jumps and through a 180 degree turn, then dismounted and road bicycles, going through the course again using the spaces between the jumps as slalom gates. A big crowd was watching and eating and drinking in the beer garden that had been set up in the park.
Next to the horse/bicycling race was a dog racing track. It was a U shaped 100 meter track made up of termporary platic fencing like we use for protecting trees in construction projects. The "rabbit" was a ball of ribbon tied to a string that revolved around the track on pulleys. The dogs in the races were terriers. It was reminescent of U 6 soccer, with some dogs fast and sure, others chasing their brethern, some going the wrong way and some who needed their mistresses to run with them. The Dutch took the racing as a matter of coarse, reserving emotion, while the Americans cheered on the competitors.
Back at the hotel, which is very quiet this weekend, probably because most people went to the shore for their holiday, we sat in the dining room looking out at the wet lands, forest and sea through large windows flanking a 10' X 15' portrait of clint Eastwood in a duster, cheroot hanging rom the corner of his mouth, hand moving toward his six gun.
We had a great dinner, but for one mistake. We thought 13 euros for lobster dinner was such a good deal we could not pass it up. Unfortunately we had not noticed that the cost was 13 per 100grams and the lobsters weighed in at 500 grams. A costly mistake at the end of a great day.
Bergen op Zoom, last day in Holland
We are laying over today, a day ahead of schedule. Because of the holiday and the changes in the route, we took a taxi from our off route destination in Zierikzee to the real GR 5 at Sint Phillipsland. Then we hiked to Halsteren where the hotel was full. The manager was very nice and looked for a place for us while we had a beer in the bar and watched the goings on, which included young waitresses giggling and playing at their work and a 60th wedding anniversary party. A hotel was found just outside the old town of Bergin op Zoom. As it had been a hot hike, probably 23 degrees, we took a taxi to the Golden Tulip Park Hotel.
So, now we have traveled most of the way through the Netherlands in unusually beautiful weather. We have wlked 112 km, which which because of the change in the trails is about 4 km less than what we had planned. And we are a day ahead of our itinerary.
The walking from Renesse to Zierikzee was mostly along the dike looking out at the Hammen Bay. We are the only walkers among many cyclist, most of which are either family groups or people of our age or older, although we see an occasional group on a training ride. The approach to Zierikzee is along a canal with a line of sail boats headed to the town's haven (harbor). The entry is through the old town wall next to a windmill and then along the quay. The old town is typical 17th and 18th century along winding narrow cobbled streets. If they have gardens they are in the back of the houses, so the front windows are perfectly clean and are filled with sculpures, flowers, family heirlooms, paintings, in front of carefully decorated
living rooms. Our hotel and the restaurant on the town square, picked because it looked the most Dutch to us, were both owned by the same Chinese family, that has been in town for over 30 years.
The walk yesterday was along canals and through the countryside. The canals are full of ships, pleasure boats, and barges. The trails quiet and teeming with cyclists. We are learning not to pass by a cafe by without stopping. So we had lunch of mushroom omelet and eel sandwich along with our favorite Herzog Jan pilsner outdoors at the cafe (thinking of Tom and Cindy) in Nieu Vossemeere along the way.
Today we are washing clothes and resting. I am avoiding the washing pretty well by navigating around this TV based computer system (6 euros per day) that I have not been able to figure out for email yet and am hoping will actually post to the blog! Will go into the old city and see the sites this afternoon. All of the shops will be closed today because of Pentecost, but the weather is sunny and warm. A good day for strollig through the parks and labarynth of streets in the old town.
So, now we have traveled most of the way through the Netherlands in unusually beautiful weather. We have wlked 112 km, which which because of the change in the trails is about 4 km less than what we had planned. And we are a day ahead of our itinerary.
The walking from Renesse to Zierikzee was mostly along the dike looking out at the Hammen Bay. We are the only walkers among many cyclist, most of which are either family groups or people of our age or older, although we see an occasional group on a training ride. The approach to Zierikzee is along a canal with a line of sail boats headed to the town's haven (harbor). The entry is through the old town wall next to a windmill and then along the quay. The old town is typical 17th and 18th century along winding narrow cobbled streets. If they have gardens they are in the back of the houses, so the front windows are perfectly clean and are filled with sculpures, flowers, family heirlooms, paintings, in front of carefully decorated
living rooms. Our hotel and the restaurant on the town square, picked because it looked the most Dutch to us, were both owned by the same Chinese family, that has been in town for over 30 years.
The walk yesterday was along canals and through the countryside. The canals are full of ships, pleasure boats, and barges. The trails quiet and teeming with cyclists. We are learning not to pass by a cafe by without stopping. So we had lunch of mushroom omelet and eel sandwich along with our favorite Herzog Jan pilsner outdoors at the cafe (thinking of Tom and Cindy) in Nieu Vossemeere along the way.
Today we are washing clothes and resting. I am avoiding the washing pretty well by navigating around this TV based computer system (6 euros per day) that I have not been able to figure out for email yet and am hoping will actually post to the blog! Will go into the old city and see the sites this afternoon. All of the shops will be closed today because of Pentecost, but the weather is sunny and warm. A good day for strollig through the parks and labarynth of streets in the old town.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Renesse
We did not expect to be in Renesse, but such is the adventure of the trip. We had a bit of a time finding a place to stay in Amsterdam because it was the Ascension Day holiday and things were booked. When there is a holiday here everyone takes off and plays. Now we have run into Pentecost. The manager of the hotel here in Renesse does not know what the significance of this religious holiday is (as is the case with many Dutch people, I suppose) but is happy the hotel is full. He helped us find a place for tonight at our next stop, Zierikzee.
Since '84 the trail changed and now heads south out of Geodreede along the Grevetlingen Meer. It is nearly a 35 km trek without a real village, so lodging is tricky. We called ahead to the places listed in the guide book, including camp grounds and could not find a place so we decide to take the old route to Renesse. We bought a local hiking and cycling map and will make a 20 km hike today to Zierikzee, which is supposed to be a spendid little village. We will catch up to the GR5 by bus. The way we are spinning this is that we are walking the same number of miles as we had stayed on the trail.
The weather has been spectactular so far with the high being around 15 degrees C and not a cloud in the sky after the sun burns through the North Sea mist in the morning. And the days are long! It doesn't get dark until 10 at night.
The trail is mostly well marked and is magical with bird song, lilac hedges, tulips, sea views, neat dutch houses and barns with kitchen and flower gardens, and the rich hues of the green polders. The trail runs over grassy dikes, through woods, along cycling pathes and occasionally along a road. Use of the bike pathes by scooters keeps us awake.
We have had minor aches and pains, the most significant was shoulder pain for Rhonda which we have fixed by padding her pack straps with a pair of sox, an old trick from 50 milers. I overdid with the wonderful sea food, which was very rich for a vegetarian, so I am watching out now and trying to eat right.
We stop every hour of so to sit on a bench and take in the views or after lunch have a beer at a cafe by the trail.
Since '84 the trail changed and now heads south out of Geodreede along the Grevetlingen Meer. It is nearly a 35 km trek without a real village, so lodging is tricky. We called ahead to the places listed in the guide book, including camp grounds and could not find a place so we decide to take the old route to Renesse. We bought a local hiking and cycling map and will make a 20 km hike today to Zierikzee, which is supposed to be a spendid little village. We will catch up to the GR5 by bus. The way we are spinning this is that we are walking the same number of miles as we had stayed on the trail.
The weather has been spectactular so far with the high being around 15 degrees C and not a cloud in the sky after the sun burns through the North Sea mist in the morning. And the days are long! It doesn't get dark until 10 at night.
The trail is mostly well marked and is magical with bird song, lilac hedges, tulips, sea views, neat dutch houses and barns with kitchen and flower gardens, and the rich hues of the green polders. The trail runs over grassy dikes, through woods, along cycling pathes and occasionally along a road. Use of the bike pathes by scooters keeps us awake.
We have had minor aches and pains, the most significant was shoulder pain for Rhonda which we have fixed by padding her pack straps with a pair of sox, an old trick from 50 milers. I overdid with the wonderful sea food, which was very rich for a vegetarian, so I am watching out now and trying to eat right.
We stop every hour of so to sit on a bench and take in the views or after lunch have a beer at a cafe by the trail.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Hoek van Holland - Brielle - Oostvoorne - Goedereede
And here we go! This is the first waymark in Hoek van Holland, the start of the trek. White over red marks will guide us to Nice (hopefully).
On the trail to Brielle. Gorgeous hiking.
After 25 km, we reached our hotel in Brielle. It was a welcome sight. The town is an old fortified community, where in 1520 the Dutch rebelled against Spain.
Here we are on the trail to Oostvoorne. Good weather, good hiking, good food, good beer -- what's not to like? Planned to go Rokanje, but no hotels available, so stopped in Oostvoorne after 11 km.
The next day we traveled through the dunes, 21 km., to Goedereede. This is our hotel. We have a layover day here today on May20th. Hiked from here to the library in Ouddorp to use the computer, as no computers were available in Goedereede. We could not have done this post without the help of a wonderful librarian.
This is a view of the town square from out hotel. We spent time sunning ourselves at the tables. After dinner, the town band appeared in the square in concert. The square was full of children involved in a school contest. We asked if it was a fundraiser and they said, "No, it was just fun." The schools here seem to be funded appropriately -- novel idea!
We awoke today to a farmers market in the square. Things just get better and better.
Across from the bakery on a flower-lined street.
A happy man!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Amsterdam
We have been in Amsterdam for 4 days adjusting to the time difference and seeing the city. Went to Rijks Museum, Van Gogh Museum, and the Amsterdam Hermitage. Wonderful Rembrandt, Vermeer, Matisse, Picasso, and of course, Van Gogh. We have been walking throuthout the city, exploring the cananls and parks and stopping for beers and snacks along the way. It has been a holiday, so things have been crowded. Lots of time is spent dodging bicycles, scooters, cars, trams, and buses! It has been unusually coo weatherwise, but that is good, since there has been a garbage-hauling strike. We just saw the first garbage truck beginning cleanup -- they have a lot to clean up.
This is how the Dutch stay fit:
This is how the Dutch stay fit:
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Why?
In the spring of 2000 we traveled in Europe with our son, Ben, who was studying at the University in Regensburg, Germany. We finished our trip with Ben in Saarbrücken with German friends. We asked them if there was a good place to hike for a day on our way north. They consulted their maps and recommended a hike in the “Petite Suisse Luxembourgeoise.”
So it was that we found ourselves staying in Grundhof and setting off on a long hike through the Luxembourg countryside on a perfect May Day. We hiked along Hallerbach creek to the ruined castle at Beaufort with its lake complete with swans. Along the trail we observed unique painted blazes to show the way and it was so beautiful we photographed each other on the trail.
About five years later we spent a weekend hiking at Pt. Reyes. We met a hiker who had spent the previous summer hiking the “Grand Round” of Europe. We were intrigued and I looked for this "Grand Round" on the net but could not find a thing.
We wanted to walk in Europe after retiring and kept thinking of the “Grand Round.” Two years ago we hit the jackpot and stumbled onto information on the Grande Randonnée Cinq. Thank you Google. There was even a guidebook in English written by two American women who had walked the GR 5 in 1984, published by the Sierra Club. It was out of print, but available used. We ordered a copy and amazingly on the cover was the Beaufort Castle, and Lake, and swan.
The book by Susanna Margolis and Ginger Harmon has been an inspiration to us and we have used it for all of our basic planning. And now we will set out to ramble along the GR 5 for the summer.
Luke
Wow! This trek is really happening. It’s been a long time coming – lots of planning and training. We are so excited. My only concern is my poor old body won’t be able to keep up with Luke. But it will be a grand adventure, no matter what. And away we go.
Rhonda
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